02/08/08
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The after-effects of proper vodka
Currently in Rostov on Don - not a city I'd ever really heard of, but apparently the 8th largest in Russia and the fastest growing. Certainly lots of gleaming skyscrapers everywhere, and a pretty nice hotel - not a brown velvet armchair in sight! About 220 miles today, 3005 in total
As I said in my last text, most of yesterday was spent waiting around for the ferry across the 5-mile strait between Port Krym (Crimea) and Port Kavkaz (Caucasus) - this being the crossing between Ukraine and Russia. It was certainly a nice day for lying on the grass by the sea and the various Russian bikers making the crossing (pictured on the photo page) were really helpful and friendly - telling me where to go and what do do, filling out Russian forms for me and so on.
On the other side, they were all able to get through immigration and customs straight away, but it took me about an hour. Nothing too painful and only 200 roubles (4 pounds) tax to pay on the bike, just quite a bit of waiting while various documents were printed. It was great to find Oleg and Anastasia (dentists from Moscow) still waiting for me when I got out. I followed them to the small town of Temr'uk, about 25 miles away, and on the shores of the Sea of Azov (famed for its medicinal mud). A blast down empty, well surfaced roads behind Oleg's big cruiser - going due East, the setting sun was blinding in my mirrors.
Oleg found the local hotel (another Soviet style place - same deal as Rivne, but can't complain for 12 quid) and arranged parking for the bikes in the local police station. Nice one! The fee was to take a couple of the cops for a quick pillion round the block. They hopped on happily - no helmets needed here, and gloves are for nancy-boys! We were soon in the restaurant across the road, tucking into a vast array of meat products garnished with a token salad. A half-litre of vodka and a litre of tomato juice were on the table. Several toasts later I felt I'd been properly welcomed to Russia. Oleg and Anastasia's kindness really made it a memorable day and I look forward to taking them out for a spin around the finest roads in the Thames Valley on their visit to England next year.
I set off early this morning for Rostov, leaving Oleg and Anastasia to investigate the medicinal mud. It was fairly busy out and I didn't reach Krasnodar (80 miles in) until lunchtime. Pulled over at a police checkpoint - documents out - I know the score now. "You drink?". "No, no, I'm fine thanks - I'll be off now". "You follow me". I was surprised to find myself being presented with a breathalyser and dumbfounded to find myself allegedly 3 times over the legal limit. My heart sank. Less than 24 hours in the country, and a serious offence - I could amost hear the cell door slamming shut behind me. I didn't know whether I really was over the limit on account of last night, or whether it was a 'special breathalyser' for tourists, and didn't feel able to argue the toss. With the aid of an english-speaking lady on the phone, we established that I was a very bad person, and was to be taken to the local alcoholics' hospital to dry out for the afternoon, while my documents were all taken somewhere else for a special inspection. Or ! I could just pay a $200 fine, grab a bite to eat in the coppers' canteen and be on my way. A huge relief. Just to be on the safe side, I won't be drinking any more vodka this trip!
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